Until recently people visiting Jaipur, the pink capital of Rajasthan, had two options: stay in a restored palace or in a zero-star guesthouse. This is why this wonderful new haven is proving such a draw, particularly among the High Class Guests who appreciate its refined but relaxed aesthetic and extraordinary quality-price . Staying at 47 JobnerBagh is like moving in with an old pal and meeting their interesting, creative friends. The owner, Shiva Gujar, who has been in the jewellery business for a couple of decades, worked with the late Italian architect Paola Giacomini to create the charming, 12-bedroom retreat with its whitewashed, curved jali walls and wide terraces; the simple, sunlit interiors are furnished with much-loved antiques and vintage Indian pieces. The hotel is just beyond the edge of the old walled city, in what was once the garden of the Maharajah of Jobner's haveli, and there is a splendid roof terrace with views of the 18th-century Nahargarh Fort. Shiva's wife Anita creates wonderful home-cooked Indian suppers, which you can eat in the garden or candle-lit dining room; her friendly staff serve tea, coffee, nimbupani (lemon water) and snacks throughout the day. The delightful Megha, Shiva's daughter, runs a stylish shop selling local textiles and crafts. The small spa offers both Ayurvedic and aromatherapy massages.

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